Oddball in Oregon: Willamette Pass to Cascade Locks

Sunset near the western base of the Middle Sister

Out of Willamette Pass I was consumed by more miles of endless forest, although I found that hiking often with others made it more tolerable and more fun.  Analog and I shared many of these miles; we stopped every five or six miles and these short discussion-laden breaks at times made Oregon even somewhat comical.  

Other times we shared the time with other hikers.  Sometimes those breaks were with another thru-hiker named Hono.  Hono is a very easy-going, friendly hiker, who forgoes the luxury of carrying an iPod.  Instead of carrying music, he sings on the trail, and his songs can be both pleasant and humorous to hear.  Charlton Lake broke up the giant green canopy, offered a great place to consume copious amounts of humus and crackers, wash my socks, and meet another hiker—Calf.  Calf knew Analog from some previous miles but it was the first time I met him.  He’s a German, a veteran thru-hiker of the 2100-mile long Appalachian Trail, a great guy to hike with, in some strange way reminds me of a Santa Claus (if Santa Claus were super-fit), and since his calves are each about the size of my head, his trail name is quite fitting.  

Along with Clay, we all had the pleasure of hiking through a thunder and lightning storm towards the end of that first day out.  I removed my headphones for those last few hours and simply enjoyed the sound of the storm.  Rain soon followed and shortly after each of us were setting up our tents near Horseshoe Lake.  From our tents we ate our dinners, drank hot beverages if we had them, and conversed by shouting through our tents. Who could ask for better neighbors, weather, and a place to camp? I later learned that that lightning storm caused fires and that we managed to stay just ahead of them.

Fire damaged section near Elk Lake

Clay and Hono on
"classic" trail in Oregon

There were wonderful occasions where Oregon also offered a great deal of variety along the trail—meadows, tall forests, and numerous little hills and dales to be rounded and visited.  These days consisted often of, especially when the terrain was flat, what I like to refer to as “classic backpacking,” because both the environment and the ease were generally what an average person imagines when they think about backpacking. 

When the classics ceased they were replaced with old burnt out sections near Elk Lake.  On a cool day with scattered clouds, this burnt forest is very beautiful.  When I went through, the skies were a rich hue of blue, the spread of clouds were white, light, and fluffy; the trees were very grey and very dead, and they looked more like stone pillars or perhaps even like the columns of some great ruin; and just below all of this was the beginning of new life, saplings that would eventually bring down and claim those grey pillars for their own nourishment.

Where there were not great grey pylons or classics, there were the likes of Three Sisters and its white gold.  I was constantly turning my head to view these three great volcanic peaks.  Between Oregon’s late and heavy snow fall, and my schedule, the timing was perfect.  There was just enough snow that the beauty of the range was enhanced but there also was not quite enough to slow my feet too much.  All of us arrived at the base of the Sisters somewhat late in the day and even though we still had more miles to hike, it was a perfect place to sit in the snow and enjoy an incredible sunset before we set off to search for a relatively dry and snow-free spot of earth to camp on for the evening.

Early morning west of the North Sister and just south of Obsidian Falls

2000 Miles!

Following the Three Sisters area the trail took me through the beautiful Obsidian Falls.  I honestly did not find the waterfall very impressive but what did capture my attention were the obsidian rocks which covered the ground surrounding the trail.  These small golf-ball sized chunks were not very heavy,  were as dark as the night, and as smooth as glass.  It was the first time I’d seen and felt rocks like this.

Eventually all those wonderful little rocks, that beautiful snow, and those marvelous views of the Sisters gave way to a vengeful return of lava rocks before and after McKenzie Pass.  I hated these lava rocks.  Miles and miles of loose black lava rocks made my trekking poles absolutely worthless, ruined the soles of my boots, and twisted both of my ankles.  I did a lot of sighing around here.  When it did end, the trail took me through a large and dry burnt out area again.  Temperature makes a big difference.  Whereas I loved walking through the burnt out and cool section around Elk Lake, the intensive heat that accompanied the day through here made the absence of shade a miserable experience.

Towards the end of the day at least I found excitement when I passed the 2000-mile marker and made it to Big Lake Youth Camp.  My late-afternoon stop there was wonderful.  The camp held a resupply package for me, offered me a free shower and laundry, and allowed myself and all the other thru-hikers to partake in one of their dinners—chocolate-chip pancakes, tater-tots, fresh fruit, and ice cream.  It would seem that a menu designed by Seventh-day Adventist children is also perfect for thru-hikers.  It was also refreshing to be around so many kind and courteous people.

Great for the eyes, painful for the feet.  Lava rocks near McKenzie pass

After a nero day in Bend—Analog, Clay, Calf, and I continued through a mostly mosquito-free Oregon, it was a rather uplifting revelation once I realized it had been awhile since I was bitten by one of those little monsters.  The trail brought us through some very unique rock formations like Three Fingered Jack and then around slowly around a scenic Mount Jefferson. 

I loved Jefferson.  When Analog and I finally came upon it, the south-eastern approach was covered in a field of snow.  It was difficult to walk on, but I am a sucker for this kind of terrain and loved just being in it.  Once were upon its north side, we could see the glaciers that rest upon Jefferson.  Glaciers in Oregon; I would have never thought.  The day around Jefferson ended with a brief stop in Olallie Lake Resort.  None of us needed a resupply but who turns down beer and chips?  It was nice sitting around a picnic table with everyone and enjoying some trail suds.

North side of Mount Jefferson

Leaving Olallie Lake I enjoyed the flattest sections of trail I had ever been on, on the PCT.  The trail was so flat that I found a new opportunity to do something new to help pass the time—reading.  The first day out of Olallie I must have read a third of an entire Foreign Affairs journal.  I only stopped occasionally whenever I found Clay collecting huckleberries.  These little berries were always quite a treat and I suspect for most of the remainder of Oregon my hands and lips were chronically stained from their blue juices.  I greedily ate them by the handful.  They were not as sweet as the blackberries around Seiad Valley, but they were far easier to collect which meant I could enjoy a far greater volume.  Analog, Clay and I ended our day after Olallie Lake at Clackamas Lake. 

At Clackamas Lake we found a very large number of weekend campers and true to thru-hiker form we took advantage of this.  Clay and I walked around looking slightly more beat than we really were, looked for excuses to initiate conversation with other people, and this paid off twice.  One family gave us bananas and another group of campers invited Clay and I to eat with them by their campfire.  When Clay and I joined them, Analog had also caught up and was able to enjoy the visit with us.  At this fire we found ourselves being spoiled by a group of six young college-aged Christians.  They wanted to hear about our hike and had extra food.  We were more than happy to share some stories while eating their crackers, cheese, hot dogs, and cookies.  They also made us “banana boats” towards the end of the evening.  These were whole bananas stuffed with chocolate and marshmallows, wrapped in foil, and cooked in their campfire.  What a treat.  The kindness of others is very infectious.  All of us were feeling very beat and worn, but after visiting these folks there was no way any of us could go to sleep grumpy.

The rest of Oregon felt great.  Not only were the final days exciting by virtue of the fact that I was almost done with Oregon, the trail went through some very unique, exciting, and beautiful areas.  After Clackamas Lake I spent more time zoning out, reading while hiking, and not paying attention to much of anything until Mount Hood came into view.  Like Jefferson it has glaciers and much of the side of the mountain that faces the PCT was covered in snow.  All around the surrounding area, brilliant and bright violet lupines were in bloom and they did an excellent job complimenting this already gorgeous mountain.

Mt Hood, glaciers, and lupine

Mount Hood was also a nice place because of Timberline Lodge.  A lodge famous for skiing as well as being used for the exterior shots of the hotel in The Shining.  It is not often one sees something like this on the trail.  Getting up to the lodge was a pain for the last couple of miles though.  The trail was uphill and the soil was so soft I felt that I was walking inside of giant ashtray.  To be so close to the lodge, my resupply, beer, and fatty foods and not being able to get there quickly was somewhat cruel.  I arrived at the Wy' East store moody but I found my day instantly improved when I claimed my resupply package.  The young lady behind the counter was so happy, so cheerful, and so talkative I found myself instantly feeling almost as happy as her.  

When I found Clay and Analog, we made our way to the restaurant in Timberline Lodge where we met another thru-hiker, Redbeard.  Redbeard, like his name suggests has a red beard.  He is also a former Air Force navigator and air liaison officer.  It is amazing how many different types of personalities and backgrounds there are that become attracted to this trail and to thru-hiking in general.  The restaurant was disappointingly overpriced and none of us seemed inclined to order more than bread or soup.  I do love to eat but something about a twenty-dollar slice of meatloaf fails to excite my stomach.  At least the beer was well priced and delicious. 

Morning coffee with (left to right) Hawkeye, Clay, and Analog  at the Timberline Lodge just before the breakfast buffet

Everyone left Timberline Lodge late the following morning.   Dinner and lunch may be overpriced but Timberline definitely knows how to do a breakfast buffet.  For less than the cost of a pretentious meat loaf, one can stuff oneself silly on eggs, potatoes, beef, pork, sausages, breads, cheeses, fruit, waffles, muffins and pastries.  I would have been an idiot not to have eaten several breakfasts that morning.  The buffet did unfortunately result in me getting a late start and I paid for this later.  

Oregon’s record snowfall showed itself when I found myself having to ford a large snowmelt creek later that day.  The silt in the creek made it difficult to see how deep it was anywhere.  So, after removing my boots I found myself testing different spots up and down the creek by trial and error; while also trying desperately to hear what Clay was yelling across the loud creek.  Eventually I found a place where I could cross with relative ease.  It took me half an hour to find this place to cross.  After crossing Clay moved on, I waited until I regained warmth and feeling in my feet, and while doing so another hiker—Hawkeye—walked right across a high log crossing that both Clay and I looked at, thought was not safe, and opted not to even try.  I found myself hiking in the darkness at the end of the day and stopped when I found Hawkeye and Clay.  A flat abandoned jeep road was good enough for that evening's campsite.

Myself at Tunnel Falls, Eagle Creek Trail

Upon leaving the old jeep road camp all of us opted to leave the Pacific Crest Trail and take the Eagle Creek Trail to Cascade Locks.  It was totally worth it.  Eagle Creek brought us back into a green canopy that I would normally dislike but I couldn’t help but enjoy how incredibly green and wet it was; it was like being in a rain forest.  The Eagle Creek Trail also had a good number of very tall and visually stunning waterfalls, pools, cliffs, and deep creeks.  Tunnel falls was the most impressive of any of the falls I have seen on this hike thus far, especially because it had a thirty-foot long tunnel where the trail went behind the falls.  Eagle Creek was a great way to finish Oregon.  Once we arrived in Cascade Locks Clay and I immediately went to find ourselves some burgers.